What Shots Does My Puppy Need?
What's The Best Way To Housebreak A Puppy?
How Do I Choose The Best Puppy
How Can I Get Rid Of Dog Urine Stains & Odor?
Does My Puppy Have Worms & How Do I Treat Them?
Help - My Puppy Has Diarrhea!
How Can I Help My Constipated Puppy?
How Can I Train My Puppy Properly?
How Do I Introduce My New Puppy To The Resident Dog?
My Dog Barks & Destroys Stuff When I'm Out - What Do I Do?
Why Is My Pup Always Licking/Scratching Himself?
The 2011 AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association) recommendations for puppy
shots are the most up-to-date veterinary guidelines for puppies and dogs in the
The four CORE vaccines (those that all puppies should have) are:
Canine Adenovirus-2 (aka CAV-2 or Canine Hepatitis) - this protects against
a viral disease affecting your pup's liver
Canine Parvovirus (aka 'Parvo'- - protects your puppy from the dreaded (and
deadly) Parvovirus. A viral disease which affects his intestines, lymph nodes,
bone marrow and sometimes even his heart
Distemper - protects against a
viral disease which affects his intestines, lungs and brain
protects against this deadly viral disease which affects your pup's central
It's worth remembering that there are no
'cures' for any of the illnesses listed above. if your pup gets one of them,
it's quite possible that he will die.
Vaccinations save the lives of
puppies just like yours every single day. They're one of the most important
parts of your new pet's health care and are NOT optional.
will be three sets of combination vaccinations (a shot that protects against
more than one disease) given at 3 week intervals.
The puppy shots
timeline that most vet's traditionally recommend starts vaccinations at around 8
A second shot is given at 11 weeks and then the third at 14.
The Rabies vaccination is given at around 16 weeks.
immunizations is good, but giving them at the right time is essential if you
want them to work!
Very young puppies have a certain
amount of natural immunity that they get from their mothers milk, but that
begins to diminish somewhere between 5 and 8 weeks of age.
If a puppy is
vaccinated while he still has a significant level of maternal antibodies in his
bloodstream, the vaccine won't be effective.
Some studies have indicated
that at 6 weeks old only 25% of puppies vaccinated respond to a vaccine by
By 18 weeks that figure has risen to 95%.
Non-Core Vaccinations For Puppies
All puppies need to have the core shots to protect them from the most
common dog illnesses, but there are also other diseases/conditions that some
pups may be at risk of catching.
These can also be prevented by
vaccination, but it's important to know that not all puppies need (or should
Sometimes it depends on the part of the country (or world) that
you live in.
Other times the activities your pup will take part in or
where he'll spend a lot of his time is the key.
These optional 'extras'
include vaccinations against:
•Corona Virus (a viral disease which affects a
•Bordatella (commonly known as Kennel Cough, a bacterial
illness which affects the upper respiratory system)
•Giardia (a internal
•Lyme Disease (a bacterial illness usually affecting
joints, but can also spread to the major organs).
Certain vaccines are
often grouped together and give as one shot. The most common would be the 3-in-1
shot for Distemper, Adenovirus and Parvo. These are all CORE vaccines.
Then there's a 5-in-1 option which also includes protection against
Leptospirosis and Canine Parainfluenza.
A 7-in-1 puppy shot option is
available which gives additional protection against other strains of Adenovirus
If your pup will be boarded, kenneled, attend dog
training classes or be 'out-and-about' a lot (which hopefully he/she will to get
those valuable puppy socialization experiences ) you need to have the Bordatella
There are two options for administering the Bordatella
vaccine - a 'shot' or nasal drops.
If your dog isn't a hugely social animal, then annual boosters are enough.
BUT if he travels a lot, goes to doggie day care, is boarded or at the
dog park regularly then having the vaccine given twice a year is recommended.
Some veterinarians prefer to start vaccinations a little later at 9
or 10 weeks due to concerns about the effectiveness of vaccines when given too
early and the possible side effects.
As your puppy is very vulnerable to
disease until he's been fully vaccinated, the only problem with this 'late
start' is that you will need to keep him well clear of any strange dogs or
outdoor/indoor areas where other dogs may have been for longer.
a fair amount of conflicting opinion among vets and veterinary care
professionals as to how many vaccinations puppies (and dogs) should be given,
how often they should get them, and how the shots should be given.
Although the AAHA and AVMA still recommend yearly boosters for all dogs,
a lot of research shows that this is not strictly necessary - and can even cause
Some research seems to indicate that giving
'combo-shots' (ie a vaccination that contains more than one vaccine, such as the
3-in-1 mentioned earlier) can lead to a higher risk of allergic reactions and
other side effects.
If you are concerned about any of this discuss it
with your veterinarian. You can ask for vaccinations to be given singly (if your
vet has/can get) these.
After the first set of shots you can also ask
for your pup's blood titers to be checked before you give him any subsequent
You can do the same thing when it comes to the regular (usually
annual) boosters that adult dogs are given (with the exception of
Bordatella/Kennel Cough, Leptospirosis and Lyme Disease whose vaccines are
usually only effective for 6 or 12 months)
Worried about over-vaccination?
If you're concerned about over-vaccinating your puppy talk to your veterinarian.
After your puppy has had his first set of vaccinations you can ask your
vet to check the 'titers' in his bloodstream before he gets any more shots.
Simply put, titers are a measurement of antibodies to disease that exist
in your puppy's bloodstream as a result of vaccination.
It takes about
a week to 10 days for the antibodies to show up in tests, so you can ask your
veterinarian to run a blood test for specific antibodies 10 days after he's been
If the level of antibodies in his blood is high enough to
confirm that he has immunity to a particular disease, you may not need to
Generally once your puppy has had three sets of
the combination puppy shots, plus the Rabies shot, he will be protected.
Protection isn't immediate though, and I would recommend waiting at
least a week after your pup has received his final set of puppy shots before
venturing out into public areas.
There are also, sadly, no guarantees
and even after three sets of combination vaccines occasionally puppies still get
So always be careful to avoid dogs who might appear sick, or areas
where stray dogs might roam.
Vaccinations For Adult Dogs
Adult dogs must by law receive annual dog 'booster' vaccinations for Rabies
(although some vaccines provide 3 years of protection).
There is an
annual booster recommendation for most CORE vaccines too but your vet can check
the antibody 'titers' (basically the level of antibodies in your dog's
bloodstream to any particular disease) and vaccinate only if they are too low.
This can help to prevent over-vaccinating your dog, which may lead to
auto-immune problems and other illnesses. BUT these tests do cost extra money.
In some states/areas vaccines are now available that are effective for 3
or even 5 years. I'd recommend asking your vet if these are available for your
The best advice I can give you is to ask your own veterinarian
about this, and follow his/her advice and recommendations about canine
If you've adopted an older pup or adult dog and
don't know their puppy shots history, then the minimum vaccinations you'll need
to get them are against Distemper, Parvo and Hepatitis.
He/she will need
two rounds of shots, given 3 weeks apart.
Again though, individual areas (and each
veterinarian) may have different recommendations, so talk to your own vet to
find out what he/she thinks is best.
What's The Best Way To Housebreak A Puppy?
This is a leading, puppy FAQs question! The
simplest and easiest way to housebreak your puppy, is by using a crate.
Crate-training works WITH your puppy's natural instincts and helps speeds up
the whole potty training process.
Any puppy of 8 weeks of age or
older can begin crate-training.
You can find out how to choose the
right size crate, how to introduce it to your puppy, and exactly how this
method of housebreaking works on Crate-Training
You'll also find
lots of helpful advice on housebreaking in general on Potty Training
Crate Training A Puppy- How & Why It Works
Crate training a puppy is the quickest and easiest way to keep your home a
'puddle-free' zone! Find out why it's so effective, and how to get started here!
There's a very straightforward way to teach a pup to
eliminate where you want him to, while at the same time minimizing the number of
accidents he has, it's called puppy crate training!
one of the very first, and most important, tasks all new puppy owners have to
deal with, and it can also be one of the most challenging ones too - but it
doesn't have to be stressful or frustrating, for you or your pup.
might be wondering exactly why using a crate is so great, and may even feel that
you don't want to put your precious baby in a 'cage'... but there's no need to
I have all the information you need to understand not just how it
works, but why your puppy will soon enjoy being in his crate and why that's
completely natural for him.
A dog crate is truly an amazingly versatile
piece of equipment and it's not just an effective puppy housebreaking tool.
Using a crate (sometimes called a 'kennel' or 'cage') is going to help
both you and your pup in more ways than you might think, and as dogs are
naturally 'den' animals, your little guy - or gal - will feel safe and secure in
As he gets older he'll actually enjoy being in his own cozy,
safe little hideaway.
The benefits of crate training include....
•Helps your puppy learn where you expect him to pee/poop (and where you
•Keeps him safe, and protects your furniture and possessions
when you're not around to supervise him
•Keeps him safe when traveling
in the car or by air
•Helps prevent separation anxiety issues
•Gives him a safe place where he can get some 'alone time' and just rest
There are many different styles of crate to choose from, but
some are better suited to puppies who are being housebroken than others!
Check out my Choosing The Best Dog Crate page to find out more.
Introducing Your Puppy To His Crate
Your puppy will most likely not have spent much time in a crate before he
comes to live with you (except perhaps during travel, or if his breeder started
him on housebreaking) so crate training will be new to him.
reason why crate training a puppy is so effective is that it taps into your
pup's natural desire to keep his 'den' clean.
In the wild, puppies
would toddle out of their den to eliminate - even if it's only two tiny
puppy-sized steps outside! This is instinctive behavior and is hard-wired into
their little brains.
Now, your little guy has never seen a real 'den',
but being in his crate will trigger that deep-seated instinct and he'll
naturally do his very best not to pee or poop until you let him out.
Although crate training a puppy will help make housebreaking much easier for you
both, your puppy is a baby and has other natural instincts to deal with too. One
of them is that he instinctively wants to be right next to his pack - and that
pack is now YOU.
He feels anxious and worried if he's away from you
(because in the wild a puppy who gets separated is vulnerable and in great
danger). This is why he will cry and complain and fuss and whine at first....
not because he hates his crate!
Of course, he's perfectly safe... he
just doesn't know it yet. And as he's a domesticated dog and not a lone wolf, he
needs to get used to being separated from you from short periods, so it's okay
to ignore the fussing.
When you're crate training, it
makes the whole process a bit easier if you let your pup get used to his new
crate, and feel comfortable around it, before he has to spend much time actually
Something worth mentioning here is that you should never use
the crate as punishment. Your pup needs to think of his crate as a safe, happy
place where he gets the chance to chew on his very favorite toys! Putting him in
his crate as a punishment or when you're angry with him will undo all the hard
work you invested in the first place.
Here are some basic rules of
crate training and a few ideas for ways in which you can help your little one
get accustomed to his new crate and learn that it's a fun place to spend time -
When you begin crate training your puppy, leave the crate
door open and throw some really tasty treats inside, all the way to the back.
Curiosity will get the better of your little fur ball sooner or later and he'll
venture inside to claim them.
•Feed him inside
Give Fido his meals
inside the crate (with the door open). This way he learns to associate one of
his favorite things (food!) with his crate. If he seems scared at first try
feeding him right outside the crate door a couple of times then try it inside
•Play Hide & Seek
Make crate training fun by playing
this game. Put a tasty treat or special toy inside his crate and then encourage
your pup to 'find' it. Using a happy, friendly voice say something along the
lines of "where's your goodie? Let's find it?". Follow the search with praise,
such as "Oh, there it is. It's in your crate (or bed, house whatever you want to
call it). What a good boy, you found it!"
Now you know all the benefits
of using a crate to housebreak your puppy, and how to handle the introductions,
you'll need a straightforward guide to how to actually use it!
Crate Training Safety
One of the reasons for crate training a puppy is that it helps to keep him
safe - but there are a few things you need to do to make sure he stays that way.
1.Don't ever leave a chain, prong, training or slip collar on little Fido
when you put him in his crate. It's quite possible it could get caught up on
something and then he'll panic, the result of that could be tragic. If you
really must leave a collar on make sure it's a simple, undecorated buckle collar
- or even better a safety 'break-away' type collar.
your puppy crated in a hot room, in sunlight (even indoors) or outside in direct
sun, or in a car on a sunny day. It doesn't take much for a puppy or dog to
overheat, and again the results could be tragic. When you're crate training a
puppy in hot weather, be especially careful with short nosed breeds (otherwise
known as brachycephalic breeds) as they tend to have more difficulty with the
heat. Something similar applies to heavy, thick-coated breeds such as Shetland
Sheepdogs, Husky's etc.
3.Never allow children to tease Fido while
he's in his crate or push their fingers through the doors or wire panels. A
puppy or dog who is crated, can tend to feel cornered if approached or teased.
Even an even-tempered, docile dog can react with growling or snapping if he
His crate is meant to be your puppy's safe haven, and
as such he has a right to some peace and quiet and to feel safe when he's
How To Potty Train A Puppy
Quick 'pop quiz'.... what's one of the most important (and dreaded) tasks
you face when you bring home a new puppy? Potty training
If you don't get house training right, both you and your new pup will
soon be confused, frustrated and fed-up.
Having potty trained many pups over the years, I've learned what works (and what
doesn't) and by sharing my hard-earned knowledge I hope I can make your learning
curve a little less steep!
You'll soon find out that your new puppy has
no qualms about peeing or pooping just about anywhere!
When the urge
strikes him, you'll soon find out that your little guy (or girl) has no qualms
about peeing or pooping just about anywhere.
He also has NO idea that
this isn't the way we humans do things and is totally oblivious to the fact that
you think his behavior is unacceptable.
So, it's up to you to help him
learn where you expect him to pee/poop as quickly as possible, with love,
patience and understanding.
If you follow the simple, step-by-step
guidelines on this page you'll be able to avoid the majority of accidental or
misplaced 'puddles and piles'.
You'll be less frustrated, your pup will
be less confused and you'll both be happier!
But don't expect to
housebreak your puppy in 5 days, or 7, or 10.... those kinds of expectations are
No matter what anyone promises you, it is extremely
unlikely that your puppy is going to be properly housebroken within a week or
Of course there are always exceptions, and your little one may be a
really quick learner, but it's best to expect the whole process to be ongoing
for some weeks/months to come.
Your pup learns through repetition and by
.....when you help him make the right
connections (by anticipating his needs and showing him what you expect), he
quickly gets into the right habits. Ones that he'll follow for lifetime.
BUT, if he's allowed to build up bad habits (such as peeing on the living room
floor) it will make life much more difficult than if he gets into the habit of
feeling the grass in the backyard on his paws before he lets loose!
House-training begins the minute you bring your 'baby' home, so being
prepared beforehand is always recommended.
House Training Puppies
So, now you're ready to start potty training your puppy. If you
follow these steps and are patient and consistent, you'll have a well-trained
pup sooner than you think....
1.Designate a specific 'potty
Make sure there's an area of your yard just for your puppy, and
ALWAYS take him there to potty. Introduce him to it as soon as you get him home,
before you even take him inside the house, and hopefully he'll be ready to
2.Realize that puppies need to potty a lot!
average 8 week old pup needs to go out approx. every 30 mins to an hour during
the day, and most will need at least one potty break during the night for the first few weeks. Always take him to his potty spot
after every meal, nap and playtime - and anytime he is whining, circling and
sniffing, or seems restless or agitated (all classic signs that he needs to
3.Keep To A Predictable Routine
Puppies really benefit
from having a daily housebreaking routine that they can count on. It also helps
your efforts to potty train a puppy in two ways..... It has emotional benefits
because it makes them feel secure - remember how puppies love repetition and
habits? On a practical level, putting your pup's meals, naps and playtimes on a
schedule will regulate his bowels and make it easier for you to predict when he
needs a potty break.
4.Teach your pup to let you know when he needs
to go outside
Although at first you will be in control of when, and how
often, your pup goes outdoors to pee/poop - but eventually you'll want him to
let you know when the urge strikes! You can teach him to give you a 'heads-up'
by using Poochie Bells. The idea is that he alerts you to his needs by ringing
these little bells which are hung on the handle of the door you want him to use
to go outside. To begin with you'll need to help him 'ring' them every single
time you go out, and add a verbal cue such as 'Fido needs to potty' as you do
so. Most pups will get the hang of this fairly quickly, and it certainly makes
life much easier later on.
5.Never leave your puppy to run around
When you're beginning to housebreak your puppy, NEVER
leave your him to run around the house unsupervised. Although dogs are naturally
clean animals and will do their best not to soil in their den, your home is
considerably larger than a dog's natural den, and it will take some time for a
tiny puppy to realize that the whole house is his den and needs to be kept
This is why crate training a puppy is the quickest and most
effective way to potty train a puppy. While your puppy is loose in your home,
watch him like a hawk.. and at the first sign that he needs to 'go' (remember
the body language for this... whining, circling, intense sniffing, arching his
back or even squatting) scoop him up and get him to his potty spot. Whenever you
can't watch him, put your puppy in his crate (where he will be much less likely
to pee/poop at will.
A puppy play-pen or a fenced-off area of the kitchen is better than letting him
run free, but not nearly as effective as a crate. BUT don't put him there and
then forget about him. He's still going to need to go outdoors in 30 minutes!
6.Pick a 'Trigger Word' and use it consistently
potty training a puppy, choose a word or phrase (called a 'trigger word') and
repeat it quietly while you're encouraging him to 'do his business'. "Potty
time" or "hurry up" work fine or choose something you're comfortable with. (You
could say 'bananas' if you wanted to and it would work the same way, but if
anyone overheard you they may well THINK you're bananas yourself!)
time your little guy will come to associate this word or phrase with the actual
action of peeing or pooping and eventually just hearing it will trigger the
desired reaction. This is something that will prove invaluable when it's 20F
below and you don't want to stand outside for the next 45 minutes!
7.Make sure your puppy knows when he's succeeded
your puppy when he 'goes' in the appropriate spot. He wants to please you and
this is how he knows he's been successful. If you want to you can give him a
tiny, tasty treat as a reward too (I do this for the first few weeks and it
really does help). Just don't give him a big treat because as he'll be making
anywhere up to 24 potty trips a day he'd be eating his own weight in goodies in
8.Don't scold, if he makes a mistake so have you!
Unless you catch your puppy in the act of peeing/pooping in an inappropriate
place (and I mean IN THE ACT, not 10 seconds later) there's no point in scolding
him, he won't have a clue why you're mad and will just be scared. He may look
guilty, but it's not because he knows he did wrong, it's because he can feel
that you're angry and upset and that scares him. If he's had the opportunity to
have an 'accident' then you've also failed somewhere and probably should be
Maybe you didn't supervise him closely enough, or
you forgot that he needed to go out after lunch, or you were busy when he woke
up and expected him to 'hold it'. When you want to potty train a puppy, your job
is to make sure he's set up to succeed, and if he's made a mistake, chances are
good it's because of one you made first.
However, if he does squat
right in front of you it's perfectly OK to say "No' or "Bad" in a loud, firm
voice. It may even startle him into pausing mid-flow. Scoop him up immediately
and take him straight to his potty spot and let him finish his 'business'. Then
give him lots of praise. Even if he seems to have emptied his bladder or bowels
onto the carpet, still take him outside and repeat the 'trigger word' so that he
understands that this is where he's supposed to 'go'.
One other point that I'd like to make is that puppies NEVER make a mess on your
carpet out of 'spite' or because they're upset with you!
not capable of thinking in that way. They also don't know that it's wrong (until
their housebreaking education is complete anyway).... you'd be surprised how
many puppy owners don't realize this.
I always recommend that
when you train your puppy to do his business outdoors from day one... whenever
This is because most owners have this as their final aim
anyway, and if you teach a pup to pee/poop indoors it simply makes the whole
process much more confusing, and frustrating, for everyone.
course, sometimes there are good reasons for having to potty train a puppy to
pee/poop indoors, or on a balcony or porch.
When you're trying to house
train your puppy and you live in a high rise apartment building for example, or
if you're disabled or have mobility issues, or if your pup is a very small breed
and the weather is extremely bad etc.
If it's not practical for you to
be training your pup to eliminate outdoors, then you have a couple of options -
pee pee pads, a doggie litter box/indoor doggie potty.
The pee pee pads
are probably the cheapest option in the short term (but they're still not cheap,
especially if you plan to have your pup 'go' indoors 90 or 100% of the time).
However, puppy training pads do have drawbacks that make them my least
favorite choice personally, although many other dog owners swear by them!
A lot of puppies see them as toys, and often prefer to drag them around
and chew them up rather than pee on them!
You can find reviews of, and
information on, many popular brands of puppy training pads here - Best Puppy
A doggie litter box may work better than the pee pads,
but some pups prefer to play in the litter (or eat it!).
choice is an indoor doggie toilet which is more durable than the pee pads, and
not as messy as the litter box. Several of them have 'fake turf' for the pups to
use which helps them when you want to transition over to peeing on REAL grass
Puppy House Training When You Work All Day
As you've probably realized by now, house training demands a lot of your time
(and patience), and a pup who is left to his own devices won't learn the right
So, what do you do if you have to be at work, or at
school, for 8 hours a day?
Is it possible to potty train your pup in
this situation, or do you have to resign yourself to piles and puddles in the
house or relegate poor Fido to the back yard?
The answer to both of
these questions is 'NO'!
Of course if you're not there to take your pup
to his potty spot every hour, or to supervise him when he's wandering around
your house, playing or napping, then you can't follow all of the guidelines
But there are two ways to handle this.
Which you choose will depend a
lot on your puppy's age and temperament and on whether or not you can enlist
some help during the first few weeks......
Option #1 - Crate
Training With Help
If at all possible I'd always recommend crate
training puppies, it's truly the easiest, quickest and least-messy option.
But because a very young puppy has minimal control over his
bladder/bowels, you can't leave him crated for long periods without a potty
For an average 10 week old puppy his limit is around an hour
(maybe two) at a time during the day, by the time he's 18 weeks old - or approx.
4 months - he can go 4, 6 or even 8 hours at times.
This means that for
the first 4 months you can crate train while you're at work but you will need to
arrange for someone to come into your home once or twice a day to take him out
for a potty break and some play time.
Depending on the size of your
family and their individual commitments you may be able to patch together a
system that works if everyone pitches in - either in their lunch-hour, break
time or before/after work/school.
If this isn't possible, you'll often
find a relative, neighbor, friend or even a local teen or retired person who's
more than willing to help out in exchange for some puppy-cuddles.. and maybe a
small fee if needed.
Finally, there are petsitting services in most areas, or 'doggie daycare'
camps and such.
These measures will only be necessary on a day to day
basis for the first 4 - 6 months. After that your pup should have enough
bladder/bowel control to 'hold it' until you get home.
But do realize,
if you leave your pup home alone and crated all day, you're going to need to
invest a LOT of time and effort on play, training, socialization and just plain
'ole loving when you are at home.
Option #2 - Containment
& Puppy Training Pads
If you can't work it out so that you can crate
your puppy while you're at work/school, then you'll still need to contain him so
that he learns not to eliminate wherever he pleases... and to protect both him
and your belongings from damage/danger.
To do this you'll need a puppy
playpen and a supply of good quality puppy pee pads.
Set up the playpen
in a room where the floor is made from a non-porous, easy to clean material such
Set up a 'potty area' with one or two big pee pads (I'd
strongly recommend getting the ones that are impregnated with a scent that
encourages your pup to use them, and that fit a puppy-pad holder which is a
plastic frame that keeps the pad taut and helps to stop it getting chewed up and
Add a few sturdy, safe puppy chew toys so that he has
something to keep him amused, but don't add a soft bed or blanket because most
pups will just tear them up, and can ingest the fabric/stuffing and make
themselves quite ill or worse.
You can put his crate in there with him if you like, just make sure the door is
removed so he doesn't get himself locked in, or hurt by it.
The aim is
to have your pup eliminate on the pads while you're gone. Keeping him in his
playpen will protect the rest of your home and carpets and with time and
repetition he'll come to understand that the pads are an 'allowed potty spot'.
This puppy housetraining method can also be used if you live in an
apartment, or a home that doesn't have a fenced yard, or if you have mobility
issues that make it difficult to get a puppy outdoors quickly.
It's not an ideal option, because at some point you're most
likely going to need to re-train him to understand that he's no longer allowed
to pee/poop indoors, and that can take some time.
It works best with
small to medium sized breeds, because if you have a large or giant breed pup he
will make big messes and then you'll have a lot of cleaning up to do!
BUT, it is a stop-gap method of potty training that works if it's
* If you don't want to buy a playpen you can shut
your pup in a small room such as a laundry room or mud room, and put a
baby-stair-gate on the door to keep him inside.
A playpen is better
though because it's a smaller, more confined space and your pup is less likely
to think that any room is a suitable potty place.
Housetraining At Night
Luckily your new puppy doesn't need to pee every 30 minutes at night too, but he
will need at least one potty trip outdoors (more likely 2 or 3 during the first
week or two) between the time you got to bed and when the alarm goes off.
Puppies are like babies in so many ways (well, they are babies of
course!) and loss of sleep goes along with the territory.
By about 12 -
15 weeks most puppies have outgrown the need to go out during the night, but
those early weeks can seem like a l-o-n-g time when you're sleep deprived.
However exhausting it is you NEED to make sure when your pup cries to go
outdoors at night, that you take him out! Potty training takes consistent 24/7
effort during the early weeks, but it's well worth the effort in the end.
What I'd recommend is to give your pup a potty break right before you go
to bed at night (even if he's napping by then or whatever), then put him in his
crate, turn out the lights and ignore his initial fussing.
whine and cry when they're first being crate trained, it's normal, and as long
as you know he's 'done his business', and is just crying because he doesn't want
to go to bed, you can ignore him.
But, once he's slept for a while and
wakes up and starts to whine then he most likely needs to go outside.
Make night-time bathroom breaks short and to the point. No eye-contact,
low voice, minimal talking... you don't want your puppy to have so much fun that
he wakes up just to spend time with you!
If you choose not to crate
train your pup then I wouldn't recommend letting him sleep on your bed, or in
your bedroom - chances are when he needs to pee/poop in the night he'll simply
find a convenient spot and do his business.
The best alternative would
be to use the playpen containment option as I talked about in the section on
housebreaking a pup when you have to go to work all day.
Cleaning Up Housebreaking Accidents
When you're trying to potty train a puppy there are always going to be
occasional accidents - no matter how careful you are or how smart your puppy is!
Whenever this happens you need to clean it up immediately using a
special cleaner/deodorizer such as Nature's Miracle Stain & Odor Remover to
remove every trace of urine/feces.
Puppies are attracted back to the
same areas by their own smell and ordinary household cleaners simply won't do
the job of removing all the lingering odor. Although YOU may not smell it, your
puppy will, so always use a product that's been specifically designed for the
How Do I Choose The Best Puppy Food?
It's one of the 'Puppy FAQs of life' that what you feed your puppy now
has a direct effect on his future health, growth and development. Choose puppy
kibble that has the wording 'a complete and balanced diet' on the package.
shows it meets the standards set by the AAFCO (Association of American Feed
You need to be sure the dog food you pick has a good source
of high quality protein as it's first ingredient. Chicken or Lamb are both good
choices. Puppies grow very rapidly, and to support that growth they need a diet
high in protein, fat, vitamins and minerals.
Protein values should be around 25%
plus and fat around 15%. If you have a large breed or small breed puppy, look
for a puppy food that is especially designed to meet their specific requirements.
How Can I Get Rid Of Dog Urine Stains & Odor?
Even when potty training is going smoothly, there will be times when your puppy
has an 'accident'. It's one of those 'puppy FAQs of life'. To avoid having your
carpets ruined you need to act quickly, and tackle those puddles in the right
To be effective, you need to blot up any liquid that is in your
carpet. Then you need to rinse the area well with clean, cool water and blot
that up too.
Follow this with an application of an enzymatic-based
Allow this to soak into the carpet for at least
10 minutes and then blot up the excess.
Allow area to dry thoroughly.
You may need to repeat this process more than once
Does My Puppy Have Worms & How Do I Treat Them?
A huge percentage of puppies have worms and if you're a new puppy parent,
it's something you may well have to deal with. Some worms can be seen in your
dog's feces, and in severe cases of roundworm infestation your pup may even have
worms in his vomit.
Other symptoms of worm infestation include a
round, distended belly, a dull, rough coat or a cough. Although very common,
worms can make your puppy quite sick...at the very least he'll feel and look
'out of sorts'.
You will need your veterinarian to diagnose and
confirm the infestation, and the type of worm involved. They will then
prescribe, or administer, the appropriate de-wormer.
Do not use
over-the-counter medications as they can be ineffective at best, and harmful at
Help - My Puppy Has Diarrhea!
This is one of those puppy questions where it's not necessarily easy to
figure out the answer without veterinary help. Diarrhea in puppies is very
common and can be a sign of a simple tummy upset due to a change in diet for
example - or a deadly serious illness such as Parvo
If your puppy has
diarrhea that looks has the consistency of chocolate pudding, but otherwise
seems okay, chances are he's eaten something he shouldn't. If he's not vomiting,
is alert, playful and bright-eyed you can probably afford to wait and see for a
BUT if he's not feeling better within 24 hours, or seems to be
getting worse, call your veterinarian right away.
If your puppy's
diarrhea is severe and watery, he's vomiting and/or seems lethargic, has dull
eyes and looks like he feel unwell you need to get in touch with your
veterinarian right away.
If it's after hours you should contact your
nearest 24 hour emergency pet clinic. This could be a life-or-death situation.
How Can I Help My Constipated Puppy?
Puppies can get constipated from time to time, and often it's the small/tiny
breeds that have trouble.
There are many reasons why a puppy can get
constipated, and these from medical conditions to hairballs (and everything in
between!).There are a few simple things you can do to treat the problem, and to
prevent it happening again.
A correct diet, plenty of fluids and a
good amount of exercise are all vital to a healthy digestive system.
How Can I Train My Puppy
If you want your precious little puppy to grow up to be a well-behaved
companion, you need to teach him or her some manners, and some basic obedience
A fair number of puppy FAQs center around puppy behavior,
and learning what behavior is acceptable and what isn't should be some of his
earliest lessons! If you want your pup to understand what you expect of him,
there are three simple steps that you MUST follow :
tell your puppy
what you want him to do help him to perform that behavior reward him with treats
and/or praise when he is successful
Several short training sessions per
day are much better than one longer one because you want him to enjoy his
trainings sessions and think they're a fun part of his day.
thing to teach your little one is to recognize his name.
the basic obedience commands that you want your pup to teach him are "sit",
"come" and "down".
How Do I Introduce My New Puppy To The Resident Dog?
Most dogs learn to get along with a newcomer (and some super-sociable
souls accept them right away), but if your older dog is treating the new baby
with something less than unbridled enthusiasm he won't be the first to do
When choosing a new dog to integrate into your family, it's best
to choose one of the opposite sex to the resident dog. Two same-sex dogs are
less likely to get along as adults, especially if they're not
Also consider size and temperament, an older dog with
a high prey drive may not be the best match for a puppy from a tiny, fast-moving
breed such as the Yorkshire Terrier.
Make the initial introductions
under supervision, and expect some hesitation on the part of either
Always remember to show lots of affection to your older dog.
It's sometimes difficult to tear yourself away from an adorable new puppy, but
make a point of greeting, feeding and petting the older dog first, as it
reinforces his status (in both his eyes, and the eyes of the new puppy) and
helps to maintain a natural transition into the 'pecking order'.
My Dog Barks & Destroys Stuff When I'm Out - What Do I Do?
Does your puppy or dog drive the neighbors crazy with his barking and howling?
Does he try to remodel your home (maybe by chewing holes in the walls/door, or
destroying carpets and furniture) while you're out?
If so, chances
are he's suffering from separation anxiety. There are levels of separation
anxiety, ranging from mild distress to hysteria (on the part of the dog, not
you. Although the sight of your Persian rug in tatters has the potential to
trigger a hysterical reaction!).
There are all sorts of treatments for
this problem, depending on the level of anxiety your pet is experiencing, and
anything from simple herbal products, calming CD's, or behavior modification
training can work.
By using one, or a combination of treatments, you
should be able to lower your dogs' anxiety levels and teach him that it's okay
to be left alone for a while, and that you always return.
Why Is My Pup Always Licking/Scratching Himself?
Constant licking and/or scratching and red, itchy skin or hair loss are all
signs of dog allergies. I think it's important to point out in this Puppy FAQs
page that dogs suffer from allergies just as people do!
There are many
different causes and triggers for canine allergies, but most result in skin
problems and symptoms.
There are many, many different ways to treat
allergies in dogs, and of course the treatment depends on the trigger!
FAQ about puppies that
you might have